The Ultimate Veggie Clip
Skimmer Venturi Air Intake Cleanser
Siphoning Algae Brush
Auto Topoff Device
Emergency Power Supply
Calcium Reactor Recirculation Loop

Tired of those suction cup seaweed clips falling into the water?

This gem was constructed by removing the suction cup and super-gluing the spring clip to a piece of lexan, which is fastened to a block in the canopy with a single nylon screw, allowing it to pivot into the water. A small piece of rubber used as a washer will prevent the clip from falling when in the upright position.

No more getting hand cream in the water when feeding nori!

This idea uses purified top off water mixed with air to dissolve the salt deposits which collect in the venturi air oriface,  which is a primary cause of skimmate reduction due to clogging in venturi skimmers.

Note:  This method only addresses the air intake of the venturi, not water jet blockages, which also result in a measurable turnover drop off.

I have found that my Red Sea Berlin (RIO 3100) starts out consuming about 2 litres/min of air after a fresh rebuild.
After about 10 days of 24/7 use, the rate has dropped to half, and skimmate production is reduced.
(measured using a floating ball type flowmeter, borrowed from work)

A skimmer functions better when "broken in" (due to some surface skum build up),  so I find cleaning one more often than semi-annually to be counter-productive,  and one of the most dreaded tasks in the hobby.

By using an airline valve (with a "T"), controlled flow of RO water can be added directly to the venturi air line,  where it mixes with incoming air to dissolve the restricting deposits under the skimmers own power.  The proper water/air ratio is achieved when the intake hose makes a "slurping" noise.

Usually 10-20 minutes of washing every 5-7 days is sufficient to maintain nominal airflow, but I add all my pure top off water in this manner.

This modification to a standard toothbrush allows a siphon to be drawn through the bristles which removes the targeted undesireables stuck to the rockwork from the water column.  I use it during water changes to drain tank water into a waste bucket.

Hair algae is usually the primary target, and though it may grow back do to root establishment, my clean up crew has a better time at removing stubble rather than long strands.

The only parts needed besides your favorite tooth brush are an 1/4" (7mm) angle barb fitting, and 5' (1.5m) or so of matching vinyl tubing.  This diameter is choosen because it is the lagest hole that can be cut in the head of the toothbrush.  Smaller diameters did not allow enough water flow to suck out all the algae.
The barb must have one side chopped so as to leave a short straight section that will press fit into the toothbrush.
Measure the diameter of this section to choose the correct drill.
Drill the center of the head of the toothbrush from the smooth, not the bristle side. (the latter would result in bristle destruction)
Clean out the loose bristles, fit the elbow into the newly formed hole, and glue in place.  I found watery super glue worked well.
After drying, attach hose, and provide a strain relief by fastening (rubber band) to the handle.

To use, submerge the brush in the tank and start the siphon.  It may help to turn off circulation in the tank, in order to prevent stronger currents from blowing away the loosened algae.  Then just brush away;  I find that "small circles" work best to keep the "containment cloud"  from floating away!

Because I use some brass fittings in line to the tank, I use a Tap Water Purifier as a DI unit as the last stage before the water enters the sump.  This cheap system cannot be pressurized, or a simple float valve could be used.  At a little over $100, this top off isn't the cheapest around, but it doesn't require buckets to be filled and is very reliable.

Components:  I used two of  the Grainger 2A552  $35 float switches.  These guys are sealed and can switch 60W, which allows them to directly control a 120VAC solenoid valve.  One could use low voltage components and a transformer, but I wanted to keep it simple, and the line voltage is isolated. One of the switches is used for normal partly-submerged operation, and the other is an optional high level emergency cut off since macro and coralline algae can grow on the float and someday impede its travel.  They are mounted in a DIY lexan bracket in the sump, and wired in series with the lower one in the NO configuration, and the upper one in NC so that if it triggers the circuit breaks.

The solenoid valve itself is ordered in two pieces; a $17 valve body Grainger 1A574 is powered with an $18 Grainger 3A440 solenoid coil, rated continuous use.  I added a double pole switch to the coil housing which will allow the circuit to run through the float switches, turn on manually, or turn off all together.  An inline needle valve helps to maintain the trickle of water I run through the skimmer venturi in DIY venturi decalcifier project.

The sump level is controlled to an amazing +/- 1/8" (3mm) with this system.  It normally cycles on every few hours.