DIY
Clever ideas to make reef
husbandry a little easier
The Ultimate Veggie Clip
Skimmer Venturi Air Intake Cleanser
Siphoning Algae Brush
Emergency Power Supply
Calcium Reactor
Recirculation Loop
Electric Auto Top Off Device
Adding water to top off evaporation in the aquarium has got to be my least favorite chore, especially when loosing a gallon or more per day.
To simplify the task, I first plumbed an RO system (shared by our refrigerator) directly into the cabinet using ¼” poly line, complete with a manual shut off valve.
I soon realized that multi-tasking during the 10 minutes it takes to fill the sump often resulted in a small flood, and hours of cleanup.
Resolving to NOT forget the NEXT time was only a temporary solution.
I decided to DIY an automatic top off system, as the commercial units available around 2000 were expensive and only geared towards pumping from a storage container. There have been several revisions over the years, but what’s stayed the same is lots of redundancy. Though many people cautioned over having an “endless” water supply, there has never been a catastrophic failure of the system.
I use two float switches, each capable of controlling an AC solenoid directly. They are wired in series, with the lower float normally open such that it controls the valve based on the water level. The upper “high limit” float is wired normally closed, such that if the lower float sticks for any reason it too can cut power to the valve prior to flooding. Additional redundancies: I use a PVC needle valve to regulate the volume of water to approximately 1 gallon per hour, such that it would take about 5 hours to over fill the sump at this reduced rate. Then I installed an appliance timer on the solenoid, allowing the system to top off for just a few hours each night. This increases the “time to flood” to DAYS, which would surely be noticed during casual checks. It also prevents quick fill cycles caused by level fluctuations due to wave makers or tank maintenance.
Components: I used two of the Grainger 2A552 $35 float switches. These guys are sealed and can switch 60W, which allows them to directly control a 120VAC threaded solenoid valve. They are mounted on a homemade lexan bracket in the sump.
Redundant float switches Solenoid Valve PVC needle valve
Since the original build of my top off, many choices have become available!
Aquahub
provides kits and components for all DIY skill levels as well as great customer
care at very affordable prices for the aquarium hobbyist .
Their commercial site,
Chicago Sensor, provides all
aspects of level control for the most demanding applications below
Grainger’s pricing.
This system has worked flawlessly. I eventually replaced the timer with an aquacontroller, which runs the entire tank from one program using X-10 commands. It allows me to wire the high limit float switch to a digital input, which triggers an alarm and shuts the heater and main lights down as well as the valve. Since one of the causes of high sump level is return pump failure (back flow from tank), this prevents overheating if the tank temperature heater is located in the sump.
The ultimate Veggie Clip
Tired of those suction cup seaweed clips falling into the water?
This gem was constructed by removing the suction cup and super-gluing the spring clip to a piece of lexan, which is fastened to a block in the canopy with a single nylon screw, allowing it to pivot into the water. A small piece of rubber used as a washer will prevent the clip from falling when in the upright position.
No more getting hand cream in the water when feeding nori!
The clip is rotated out of the water, ready to receive some goodies
The clip is now in feeding position!
Venturi air intake de-calcifier
This idea uses purified top off water mixed with air to dissolve the salt deposits which collect in the venturi air oriface, which is a primary cause of skimmate reduction due to clogging in venturi skimmers.
Note: This method only addresses the air intake of the venturi, not water jet blockages, which also result in a measurable turnover drop off.
I have found that my Red Sea Berlin (
After about 10 days of 24/7 use, the rate has dropped to
half, and skimmate production is reduced.
(measured using a floating ball type flowmeter, borrowed from work)
A skimmer functions better when "broken in" (due to some surface skum build up), so I find cleaning one more often than semi-annually to be counter-productive, and one of the most dreaded tasks in the hobby.
By using an airline valve (with a "T"), controlled flow of RO water can be added directly to the venturi air line, where it mixes with incoming air to dissolve the restricting deposits under the skimmers own power. The proper water/air ratio is achieved when the intake hose makes a "slurping" noise.
Usually 10-20 minutes of washing every 5-7 days is sufficient to maintain nominal airflow, but I add all my pure top off water in this manner.
This picture shows the flow meter,
connected to a "T" valve,
which allows purified water to mix in the venturi air
intake.
Simply brushing algae off from the rock work causes the absorbed nutrients to be reintriduced to the water column, which may start a new algae cycle. By removing the algae from the system, the likely hood of refueling its return is reduced.
This modification to a standard toothbrush allows a siphon to be drawn through the bristles which removes the targeted undesireables stuck to the rockwork from the water column. I use it during water changes to drain tank water into a waste bucket.
Hair algae is usually the primary target, and though it may grow back do to root establishment, my clean up crew has a better time at removing stubble rather than long strands.
The only parts needed besides your favorite tooth brush are an 1/4" (7mm) angle barb fitting, and 5' (1.5m) or so
of matching vinyl tubing. This diameter is choosen
because it is the lagest hole that can be cut in the
head of the toothbrush. Smaller diameters did not allow enough water flow
to suck out all the algae.
The barb must have one side chopped so as to leave a short straight section
that will press fit into the toothbrush.
Measure the diameter of this section to choose the correct drill.
Drill the center of the head of the toothbrush from the smooth, not the bristle
side. (the latter would result in bristle destruction)
Clean out the loose bristles, fit the elbow into the newly formed hole, and
glue in place. I found watery super glue worked well.
After drying, attach hose, and provide a strain relief by fastening (rubber
band) to the handle.
To use, submerge the brush in the tank and start the siphon. It may help to turn off circulation in the tank, in order to prevent stronger currents from blowing away the loosened algae. Then just brush away; I find that "small circles" work best to keep the "containment cloud" from floating away!
Emergency Power Backup
This unit was built for about $150 and automatically takes over during power failures. It will run the MAG18 for about
9 hours.
This setup consists of a large
"deep cycle" marine battery (95AH), a battery maintainer, a DC to AC
inverter,
and a relay that remains closed when house AC is on ,
but switches the inverter on when power fails.
Visit this post on Reef Central for construction details!
CO2 Recirculation loop for a Calcium
Reactor
This idea came about because the output to my GEO reactor was constantly
getting clogged with access CO2 that collected
in the top of the chamber.
It seemed like a waste for this undissolved gas to
just get pushed out of the system!
Basically, this mod will only work on reactors with flow pushing down on the media. The effluent comes out the top, as does the excess gas that isn't disolved in the water. By lowering the effluent tube, and creating a new "recirculation" port, the gas that collects at the top of the chamber is pushed back into the CO2 feed line where it combines with fresh gas and gets chopped up by the recirculation pump impellor.
1) Is a pinch valve, as I wanted to play with the flow in this second loop. It can be used to regulate the flow back into the gas
loop.
(2) is the airline tubing that takes the water down to
a (3) "Tee" (located below the check valve)
which allows the air/water to re-enter the gas line, getting chopped up and
forced back into the loop.
Visit this post on Reef Central discussion of this modification!